Few tips

The best thing is, you have HEAPS of room to improve and watch those times tumble!!

General ROT is what you gain on the 60, double it and take it off your ET. So if you could get down to some 1.6-1.7's, then you're looking at a some mid 11's.

Just a bit of info on what you want to have happen.

You're aim is to get the tyres planted hard, and keep them planted with suspension setup and weight transfer. A VIDEO of your launch will tell a thousand words so highly recommend getting a friend to video your car from the side/rear quarter and then play it back in slow motion. You can paint a white stripe on the side of the tyre which makes it easy to see when it's spinning.

The street drag radials have quite a stiff sidewall compared to normal slicks, and the manual hits these hard which tends to light them up more than an auto. That being said, if you go to s dedicated slick, there are specfic versions for a manual with slightly stiffer walls (compared to a normal slick, but nowhere near as stiff as a steel radial).....this helps to cushion the initial hard hit when you dump the clutch.

Experiment with tyre pressures and burnout length.

Springs:
Soft front and rear. Soft rear springs allow the whole axle to get slammed hard to the ground (planting the tyres) and stay there, ie: not much spring force to overcome. If they are stiff, then the axle/tyres will "rebound" real quick off the hit and bounce back up which takes the weight off and you'll spin. About 4 std leafs is a good start point. Front soft springs that are standard height allow the front to come up and transfer weight to rear. Short or stiff heavy V8 springs don't allow this as much.

Shocks:
Adjustables rears are the best. For the rear, you want them to open real easy and be very hard to compress. ie: when the axle gets pushed to the ground as above, the shocks open up easy.....now that they are hard to compress, they hold the tyres down and minimises the rebound effect. Front shocks you want 90/10's, don't need adjustable ones, you can buy them like this. Again, they open easy (allowing front to lift) and come down slow which holds more weight on the rear axle.

Caltracs or Traction Bars:
These control axle tramp and spring wrap up and also allow you to control how hard the tyres get hit which can help in getting the power to the ground.

Clutches can also play an important role in power transfer.

Hope to see your times come down!

I'm running a TKO with 4.11 gears and a 3500lb car and I'm still testing to get the times down....so far at 1.53, but want to get some 1.4's.