For the discussion of the Teenie Aircraft. Owners and interested parties are all welcome to exchange ideas or just chat. Please put your name on ALL your posts. Please be advised - Anyone posting to this forum is giving their permissions AND waiving any copyright they may own AND that they are posting to the public domain without remuneration. The Teenie Aircraft Construction Gallery is online at ... http://25th.com/t2/ ...
T2 flying advice PLEASE
by Dave (no login)
Hi,
I found out about the T2 fairly recently. I have a PPL with about 100 hours on Cessna and piper.
I was looking for a more affordable way to fly and fount out about that great looking plane, the T2.
I called up someone who has one for sale but he kinda scared me telling me that it is a very hard to handle plane.
I don't want to take a chance buying this having experience in only very different airplanes from the T2 and end of upside down on the ground....
Does anyone here has advice on how to proceed to learn how to fly these really neat looking T2s?
Thank you,
Dave
Posted on Aug 1, 2008, 3:22 PM from IP address 72.95.39.19
What I did was started with slow strip runs getting faster and faster.Then lifting the nose wheel off the ground for the full length of the runway,then eventually flying the full length a foot or so off the ground.
Posted on Aug 1, 2008, 6:44 PM from IP address 121.79.13.223
You might look here: http://www.network54.com/Forum/40291/message/1010682929/My+Speeds%2C+Flight+Techniques+and+Learning+to+Fly+the+Teenie+Two
It's a pretty good post. I hesitate to add any additional input, since I haven't flown, or even sat in a T-2. All I've done is handle a set of plans and made a few big pieces of aluminum into more smaller pieces. However, I'll offer the following anyway. The T-2 doesn't handle like a Cessna, or Piper. In many ways, it can be considered a high performance aircraft. It's fairly fast for the horsepower, light on the controls, and has a high power off sink rate. It's very responsive in both pitch and roll and this is where some people will get into trouble. If you expect it to respond like a 172, it can be easily over controlled. The high power off sink rate is another area that can bite you if you're napping. None of these qualities make it a difficult bird to fly, but it may not be the best choice for a 100 hour pilot. If you do buy it, prior to that first flight, consider getting some dual in something like a Pitts. Yes, it's a taildragger, but it's also very responsive and short coupled. As to wheather, or not, the T-2 you're looking at is hard to fly is entirely dependant on the builder. No two of these are alike, unlike the factory birds you're used to. If the builder followed the plans closely and resisted the urge to add "improvements" to the design, or extras, it'll probably fly pretty well. Many end up overweight. This is a minimal design. If a builder trys to make it into something it's not, performance is likely to suffer.
Posted on Aug 3, 2008, 9:25 AM from IP address 216.246.156.199
Hey Dave;
A straight built teenie that is within the ball park of the recommended empty weight, is a good flying little plane. Another homebuilt that flies a lot like it is the 601HDS. It's sort of short on wing and has stiff gear like the T-2. The center stick on the HDS give's the same feel as the T-2 side stick. Performance is similar. The T-2 is not quite as stable in steep turns.
If your Piper time is in Cherokee's you won't have much problem getting used to the Teenie. The sink rate is comparable with a Tri-Pacer. Just keep your glide speed at 80/85 and you can go about as far as you can see right over the nose of the plane. Having owned a Pitts S1S, I can tell you that they are only comparable by both being small planes. The Pitts is a nervous little aerobatic machine. The teenie is a tame little putt around plane if properly constructed. It is not a high performance aircraft, but does offer good cruise speed from a basically stock VW engine. It was advertized aerobatic, but really not worth a darn for that. The 3 G high speed stall thing sort of kills the aerobatics.
If looking for a flying T-2, look at the construction of the plane close. Crooked and odd spaced rivet lines, kinked skins, changes from plans are all signs to walk away. Also check the empty weight of the plane. 310 lbs is recommended. Most come out a little over. If it is a hundred pounds over, walk away. If an experienced pilot is telling you that the plane is squirly and a hand full to fly, walk away.
The T-2 is one of the easiest planes to build from plans. I recommend building it yourself so you know exactly how it is constructed.
Keep it Simple.
Keep it straight.
Keep it light.
Mike
Posted on Aug 3, 2008, 2:56 PM from IP address 74.244.21.196
I'm heading out first thing in the morning. My cell number is 3041-775-3714. I hope to see some of you there. Unfortunately I will not be taking any of my airplanes this trip.
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Posted on Jul 22, 2008, 1:59 AM from IP address 201.218.228.140
Form the leading edge first.
Just fold it over and clamp it in the back, leaving that portion that is to become the top a little longer. Put it on a large carpet, place a 4' X 8' x 1/2" sheet of plywood on top and stand on it. It will not bend as easily as you think.
Before doing this, make a 1/2" wide strip of .020", the length of you leading edge material, wrap it around a nose rib from the back of the top main spar all the way to the aft edge of the spar at the bottom and locate the center of the nose bend. Use this to locate the offset distance on your full sheet and clamp the fold before you place the plywood sheet on top and start the leading edge bend. Works for me!
Good luck!
Bobby
Posted on Jul 17, 2008, 3:38 PM from IP address 96.241.23.245
Hey Steve;
On most leading edges I have replaced, I used the old skin for a pattern.
I measured the center of the leading edge bend on the old skin then flattened it out.
Place the new skin material on a piece of plywood and the flattened old skin on top of the new shin material.
Start drilling and putting in clecos through all the rivet holes, anchoring the skins to the plywood. When all the holes are drilled, remove the clecos.
Mark the edge of the skin and cut to size. De-bur the holes and edges.
I Used Cal's board method to put the bend in the same location as the old skin.
Cleco in place on the wing and start aligning holes popping rivets.
Wratchet straps work well to help keep the skin tight against the ribs.
It is a quick easy way to make a duplicate skin for practically any part of the plane. If you are carefull, everything will line up the same as when originally built. The original rivet holes are used leaving virtually no evidence that the plane was ever repaired.
So far it has worked well for me.
Mike
Posted on Jul 18, 2008, 5:42 AM from IP address 208.50.99.2
I tried to hammer the old L/E out flat,but it is so badly ripped and torn that using the old panel as a template is out of the question.Ive replaced some of the ribs with spares I was given ,but these had the rivet holes already drilled.So ,I have worked out how to make a new L/E with all the holes in the right position.Ive made a template out of half mm sheet of clear lexan. Works great.
Hope this makes sense.
Posted on Jul 24, 2008, 12:52 AM from IP address 121.79.13.223
I was supposed to get my Uncle's Teenie Two over a year ago, but thanks someone putting their car into the trailer and the resulting insurance back-and-forth, we're just now getting to that point. Anyways, I have several things on my wishlist for the Teenie Two seeing how I have to replace the crankshaft due to a prop strike. On the very top of this list is adding a starter (too many people lose parts when sticking them into moving props). Does anyone have any experience with Great Plains' starter kit? (see http://greatplainsas.com/scdiehl.html ) It appears to mount to the rear of the engine so I believe I'll have room under the cowl, but I wanted to get some opinions first.
Jeff
Posted on Jul 10, 2008, 8:34 AM from IP address 70.162.34.205
Well, I know my answers are usually not short and sweet and usually pretty opinionated but it’s my two cents ;-)
Jeff, you haven’t mentioned a few things. I appreciate the desire to have a starter. Has the airplane flown? Do you understand that the Diehl package from Great Plains will affect the weight and balance considerably?
What happens is that the heaviest part of the airframe, the motor, is shoved forward by about 1-1/2 – 2” by the thickness of the Diehl case. And it also means that the engine mount will need modified considerably also, and I think this will push the engine out even further as most folks add the new mount to an old mount instead of building the thing from scratch which would include the nose gear and steering.
And since you are adding a starter, you will need a battery. Well, some folks say that a good balancing item for the heaviness up front is a battery in the back. But the problem is that you need some pretty heavy wire that goes all the way back there, AND a reasonably heavy mounting for the battery in an area of the airframe that is built light..
You see, you are adding a considerable amount of weight to the whole shebang, on an airframe that was designed to operate at its best by being very light.
Is it NEVER a good idea to add a starter? Well, maybe not if the airframe is a very light version of the Teenie. If I were you, I would weigh the airplane right now before any changes at all. Then call Steve Bennett at Great Plains and ask about the total weight of what this would add to airplane (you’ll have to guestimate what the different motor mount would weigh) and then figure out the difference in the weight per square foot change in wing loading and how that might affect the already serious sink rate. By the way, most “light” airframes would be in the 310 – 340 lb. range.
I think that is the way to best approach it. You’ll learn a lot about your airplane, too.
Again, my two cents.
Jack D
Posted on Jul 10, 2008, 10:56 AM from IP address 63.131.48.35
I'm looking at different starter options right now and I'm trying to pick the best one for my situation. Weight and balance will certainly be taken into account for the aircraft, especially since I've flown aircraft with incorrect W&B sheets and know just how scary it can be to fly outside the allowable CG. The aircraft flew for about 15 years until the late 80s/early 90s. The aircraft does use a battery for its navcom/transponder/position lights/etc. already and adding a seperate electrical system will only be done if it makes sense when I start pulling things apart from a space/cost/CG standpoint. My plan is to add a starter no matter what, I'm simply unwilling to accept the safety risks that come with hand proping an aircraft engine. Both runaway planes and lost limbs are real dangers, not to mention when compared to the ease of sitting in a preflighted-airplane, pushing a button and having the airplane come to life. The safety issue of having a good CG range is kind of negated when your arm gets cut off before you even get in the plane. :)
Do you or anyone else have any other suggestions beyond the X Diehl system from Great Plains? What other solutions are commonly used with T2s? Has anyone added them before/after original construction? What were the results?
Thanks,
Jeff
Posted on Jul 10, 2008, 12:35 PM from IP address 199.46.245.232
Although I agree that there is some real danger, and that it would be nice to have a starter, what I mean is that a starter is not part of the original mission plan for this airplane. I say, weight it and fly it first, then see what you think.
By the way, my '46 Taylorcraft also has an armstrong starter and I do it by myself just about every time.
I always tie the tail down.
I've never seen any system other than the Diehl on Teenies.
Jack
Posted on Jul 11, 2008, 9:19 AM from IP address 63.131.48.35
Ok....maybe I shouldn't reply to this message since I don't have a T-2. All I have is a set of plans and a few pieces of cut up aluminum that may someday be a set of ribs. Also, I don't post often, but I am a frequent lurker. That said, I'm gonna do it anyway. I understand your trepidation's concerning hand proping. Many years ago, I earned my private certificate in a Tomahawk. The idea of starting the engine by hand seemed very hazardous to me. Then I had the good fortune to meet a retired American Airlines captain who introduced me to anitque airplanes in the form of a Luscombe 8A. It had no electrical system of any kind, so hand proping was the order of the day. I learned, when done properly, it was not hazardous at all. As an aside, he also had a Beech Staggerwing and once when I was trying to bum a ride the battery wasn't quite up to snuff. After a little instruction, I proceded to hand prop that big 985 Pratt! Different technique and a lot more effort, but not hazardous. Now, propping a taildragger with it's nose in the air and proping a nose wheel airplane are 2 different animals. With the taildragger, when you pull the prop through to start it, you're pulling your body away from the plane and spinning prop. If you try the same technique with the nose roller it's very hard to not pull your body toward the engine. If this is the way you seen your uncle start his Teenie, then it probably looked dangerous, because it was. Nosewheel planes are best propped from behind the prop. The tail should always remain tied down on either type of bird even if you have a parking brake. With the ccw rotation of the VW engine on a T-2, a person stands in front of the left wing and pulls the prop through with his left hand. Your right hand is in the cockpit on the throttle. Again...the tail is tied down. You just have to have the presence of mind not to walk forward into the spinning prop. Of course if you can't remember not to do that, maybe you shouldn't be operating an aircraft. Also, on either nosewheel, or tailwheel bird; don't curl your fingers over the prop blade. Only your fingertips. I'm not trying to tell you not to install a starter. There are plenty of Teenies out there with starters. My intent was just to point out that if done properly there is little danger of severed limbs, or runaway airplanes. Back to lurking I go.....................
Posted on Jul 11, 2008, 5:54 PM from IP address 216.246.133.217
I have just purchased a 90% complete T2 and want to add a starter. I feel as you do about hand propping, though I used to hand prop my old PA-17. But that was before I became old, feeble and afraid. In any case, if anyone has advice for me, it would be apreciated.
Posted on Jul 11, 2008, 5:57 PM from IP address 75.192.153.197
Mike, I also hand prop my Taylorcraft from behind most of the time.
I tie the tail, pre-start checklist (I have a hand prop checklist that I made up), prime, fuel tank then turned off and pull the prop thru four times from the front with ignition off.
Then I go to the passenger side, open the door all the way flat against the side of the nose, one foot in front of the wheel, one behind. Ignition hot, two fingers on the prop, pull and then hand inside to adjust the throttle. If all seems well, turn fuel tank on.
Your behind the prop procedure for the Teenie is also accurate, and if you have seen the fellow from Canada on the DVD, he does it the same and that seems safe.
Now, Neecie, "...old, feeble and afraid..."? No disrespect, but the Teenie is not for you. With a light weight, properly built Teenie, they seriously have the glide of the space shuttle. Add weight and that's why many Teenies are sold after having been flown only once.
They glide like a stone. Definitely not for the old, feeble and afraid pilot.
Jack D
Posted on Jul 14, 2008, 6:34 AM from IP address 63.131.48.141
Jack, the expression I used, "old, feeble and afraid" was said sort of 'tongue-in-cheek'. I might be a little old but I'm not feeble and sure as hell not afraid to fly an airplane. As one ages, one tends to become wiser in the ways of the world. Something about old pilots and bold pilots and, well........you know. I do appreciate your comments expressing your concern about the extra weight needed for the starter system components. Probably the best thing for me to do is check the component weights in a Wicks.
Many thanks,
Neecie Bullock
Posted on Jul 16, 2008, 2:48 PM from IP address 75.192.221.82
Jack, I will be finishing my T2 ia a hangar currently being used to build, from scratch, LSA's (www.opusaircraft.com). The gentleman building these aircraft is an aeronautical engineer who has built many planes of many types. He will be helping me finish the T2 and I feel confident it will be a success, starter and all. Now, I might have to shed some weight, but that would be good for me in any case.
Again, thanks for your help,
Neecie Bullock
Posted on Jul 16, 2008, 3:10 PM from IP address 75.192.221.82
The best solution, if you must have a starter, is to sell your uncles Teenie and buy an airplane that is already equipped with a starter. Our friend out west added a starter, then this and that, and when he was finished and weighed it, his empty weight was 525 pounds. He never did fly it. I think it was finally disassembled and sold. That is the fate of most highly modified Teenies. The T2 WILL NOT tolerate being overweight like that. Do not ruin a perfectly good airplane by making these kinds of modifications. Teenies are just too small to do that.
The best way to start a T2 is to sit on the left wing and prop it with your right hand, ONLY AFTER TYING DOWN THE TAIL. It is a proven fact that an airplane that is firmly tied to the ground will not run over you.
Installing wing tip extension will help some with added weight, but it is best to just keep her as light as possible. The normal power off approach in a Teenie is similar to an autorotating helicopter.
Posted on Jul 14, 2008, 6:14 PM from IP address 71.163.2.71
I guess I’ll add my 2 cents worth. Though I am building a Teenie, I have never propped one before. I have propped and flown a Mini Coupe. I would start the VW by sitting on the left wing and propping from behind. Propping a VW is not as easy as propping a A65 because you don’t have that big heavy prop to help pull it though. But, it’s easy and safe to do from behind, even though the prop is short and light. I was always mindful that the prop didn’t come around and wack me in the back of the hand. (to many sore fingers starting model airplanes when I was a kid) I’m trying to keep my Teenie light. I can’t spare the weight of a starter.
Posted on Jul 15, 2008, 7:49 AM from IP address 204.108.8.5
Ron, The plane I have weighs 443lbs empty, I have begun to remove extra add on items. The builder has landing lights, battery, solonoid, rear fuel tank plus fuel line, that I have removed so far, even thinking about the canopy removal to get the weight down. Saw your message and was wondering how much help would the wing tip extensions would be on this plane? I purchased it well over a year ago, but actively read this forum and know you stated more than once the gross weight should not exceed 590lbs. The aircraft ID tag has the aircraft rated at 700 gross, which I know is BS per you and the rest of the teenie owners have verified. I weigh 200 and have not put the aircraft in the air for these reasons, can you give me some advise? Thanks Leroy
Posted on Jul 15, 2008, 5:07 PM from IP address 70.164.239.140
You better listen to Ron and Jack. This is not a design that needs or should have a starter. It just does not work for many reasons. I have built several varieties of the T-2, and made many modifications to the original design, with complete electrical systems except a STARTER. This is the one thing that does not fit in any way on this plane, for may reasons. Mostly weight and complexity of all the components necessary for an electric starter. If a starter is that important to you, better look at some other plane.
Hope to see some of you at OSH!
Posted on Jul 16, 2008, 4:50 PM from IP address 64.12.116.19
My Teenie II weighed 330 pounds. The extra weight came from many "extras" such as an extended prop hub, ADS solid core rivets, brakes with associated cables and hardware, larger turn buckles for the stabilizer support, steel tube for the carb chocke/mixture, a much heavier than necessary eshaust system, a carb heat system that weighed more than Cal's, too much solder on the fuel tank.... I used 4 additional AN 4 bolts at the wing attach points... 88 mm cylinders.. All small additions I thought were improvements....they were not!
There are many good pictures of Teenie II N28RT, in the library under completed Teenie's.
It's very easy to pick up an ounce here an ounce there, these small additions in the end can amount to a substantial airframe weight gain.
Posted on Jul 5, 2008, 8:22 AM from IP address 96.241.23.245
John,
These are excellent engines and work well on a Teenie. The engine in the Library pictures, is Bob Aymar's, N31RA, which started as a Jeenie's Teenie. He did away with the stabilator and installed a Teenie II stabilizer. A vast improvement. I flew the airplane a number of times and found it performed very well. The ingine is some 7 cubic inches smaller than a VW, but it is lighter.
To use this engine, you must build an engine mount. Also, I recall Bob having to run an oil line to the the tach drive. He machined his own design prop hub. As I recall, the engine was equiped with a fuel pump. Bob used the original carburator. Be sure to install new ignition wires and spark plugs. Most of these engines still have the original shielded ignition wires and they are in terrible shape. Most any aircraft repair shop can make you a new set of wires.
Bob displayed the aircraft at Oshkosh in 1971 and '72. Bob passed away in April, 2002. The Aymar-Demuth Propeller Company still survives.
There are lots of these engines around for very little money.
Good luck!
Bobby
Posted on Jul 6, 2008, 6:58 PM from IP address 96.241.23.245
From my experience in conversing with Teenie Two builders all over the world for the last 24 years, the lightest I have ever heard of was Bobby's at 330 lbs. The heaviest at 480 !! Most fall into the 365 to 407 lb range.
Mine, if I ever finish it, should be close to 385.
I have never seen or heard of anyone getting down to the 310. There may be good reason for this. Cal Parker himself told me that his Teenie was 335 when built. Perhaps Ron Dixon can put a VW back on the airplane and weight it for us, as he has the original bird I believe.
Cal told me that the 310 was what he expected that a builder could construct if he was diligent about keeping it light, but I suspect that even Cal never saw one at 310. Realize that the diminutive Watson Windwagon with half VW motor was at 275# and you start to realize how improbable 310# actually is....
Regards,
Jack D
Posted on Jul 7, 2008, 10:07 AM from IP address 63.131.48.35
I know this has been addressed before, but the search feature on this list is not working now. Anyway, since the rivets originally called out in the plans are apparently not available now, what type(s) should be/have been used?
Thanks,
Steve
Posted on Jul 1, 2008, 11:12 AM from IP address 12.168.121.2
The rivets are available from Wicks Aircraft Supply. I have used a combination of plated steel variety called out in the plans and also the stainless steel type.
www.wicksaircraft.com
example:
POP RIVET DIA 1/8 GR
Dome head plated carbon steel body with coated carbon steel mandrel.
SKU: SD44-BS
Our Price: $0.14
They are very high quality compared to some of the crapola that you buy in the hardware stores.
Kenny
Posted on Jul 7, 2008, 9:29 AM from IP address 63.131.48.35
To All interested parties, for some time the forum was being flooded with unrelated postings which made it difficult, if not impossible, to exchange homebuilding information as was intended by the originator of this site. I know I attempted to correct the problem as did others. I contacted authorities and worked with the support people at network54 and I feel that the problem has been corrected, at least for now. I was informed by the support people that the forum was abandoned and there was no moderator. Since I feel there is still a need for the information provided here, over the years and more yet to come, I will be the moderator by default if there are no major objections out there. Jon Ross and I exchanged several emails and we felt this was the way to go. I see the site as a place where all should be respected and network54 rules are followed. I recognize Ron Dixon as the holder of the rights to the Teenie Two design and information and wish to fully respect his investment in time and expense to keep plans available to anyone. I certainly welcome any of your ideas to make this forum better and try to prevent what happened in the recent past.
Sincerely,
David Rigdon ( CADDRAFTER )
Posted on Jun 17, 2008, 7:44 PM from IP address 74.212.58.185
Thank you very much for taking over the moderators job. I really want to stay out of moderating a site, as people might feel reluctant to offer free thinking ideas or even criticism if it is so called MY site. I think that it is very important that no one fell stifled in the discussions on the group. Plus, I am not above stealing a good idea from someone.
Ron Dixon
Posted on Jun 18, 2008, 4:03 PM from IP address 71.163.2.71
I’ve been working on a Teenie Two for almost ten years. I finally have more space and time to devote to the project. I’m going to try to finish the airplane in the next few years. I know there was a lot of damage done to the site in the last 6 months. I was wondering how many people are building and where are you located? How many people still use this site? My wife and I will be at Oshkosh this summer. Anybody flying a Teenie up there this year?
Posted on Jun 20, 2008, 7:56 AM from IP address 204.108.8.5
I too am in the process of setting up to build a Teenie Two. I havn't been at it as long a you have but have been dreaming about it since it came out when I was in high school. I carried the magazine to school for a long time and probably studied it more than most of my textbooks. After 41 years of me having no dad my Mom remarried a couple years ago and moved out of her house up in Oxford, New York. While she was cleaning out I came across my old magazine and started dreaming again. One thing lead to another and now I have purchased the plan set from Ron Dixon and am gathering material and tools and building a "Lofting Up" table/workbench set to build on. This will be made up of four identical 30" x 60" benches which will also fill in the back wall of my shop exactly with the radial arm saw in the middle when not in use for the plane. I have been watching this forum for several years now and Yes, you are right, it was messed up in the recent past. Jon Ross, one of the other builders, and I discussed the problem and we decided it was time someone tried to get some help. ( I know others were trying to get rid of the problems too) The Network 54 support staff told me that the forum was abandonded and there was no moderator so they cleaned the site up and set me in as moderator. I wasn't sure how things would go but, as you can see Ron gave a nice reply to my posting and I hope things will move forward on a Positive Note from here on. Any ideas for making this a better place to exchange building ideas and information about the Teenie Two will be Welcome. Maybe we can start working on a listing of builders! Maybe one is already out there somewhere and I just don't know about it?
Posted on Jun 21, 2008, 7:17 PM from IP address 216.37.131.52
Hi guys
I built my last wing section in the up right
position. Sure is a lot easier walking around
the building table and for some one building in
a small place , Like me in the kitchen.
Donut pails from coffee time . The square ones
is my building plat form the wing spars rest on the
pail edges and the front of the rib goes in the pail
the trailing edge is up . All the ribs can be
rivited on the spar and the bottom and top skins too.
Making to V blocks so the leading edge skins go on
with rachet straps. So I tryed the table on my
C IFTB and C I KED is being built on the donut
pails.
Better not as much walking
Brian
Posted on Jun 22, 2008, 4:09 AM from IP address 209.29.156.236
Mark, There is another group on yahoo.com that you can sign up for. There are 225 members listed there that you can contact if they are still active. Some, of course, are posting on this forum also. How is your building going after that big order of materials arrived? What wheel,tire and brake set up do you plan on using? I'm trying to decide what to get but want to keep it in the lower price range for now. I have all of the stock tubing but have not started cutting it yet. My company is doing all kinds of overtime right now so I can't put in much time on project. Maybe I'll be able to do more in the Fall.
Have Fun!
Dave R.
Posted on Jun 26, 2008, 7:10 PM from IP address 209.74.51.196
I don't come by here very often anymore, but as the person who "maintains" the T2 Gallery, I was sad to see this forum go by the wayside. I tried to get in touch with Martin Menzies (the previous forum moderator) a few months back, but got no response from him. In any case, I'm glad to see someone has picked up the torch, re-lit it, and is running with it.
Fair Winds,
TK
Posted on Jul 2, 2008, 1:53 PM from IP address 71.101.88.26
I live north of Atlanta (Ga.) and have a T 2 project I bought several years ago, but did nothing with. Wings, center section, mains, plans. The assemblies are unfinished, but would definitely jump-start a project of your own. $500 But, here's the catch... no pics to email... you have to come look at it. I will not ship. If you buy it, I want you to drive away happy with what you've got. No way to haul it, no problem... I'll deliver it for the fuel and a cup of coffee.
Email: mac@macpayne.com
Posted on Jun 7, 2008, 4:06 PM from IP address 71.12.170.30
Is there a completed "Teenie" (spelling?) for sale?
by
(no login)
I've been out of aviation for many years and are getting a bit "long of tooth". This little plane interests me but I'm not sure I have the where-with-all to build one from scratch. Does anyone have one for sale?
Any response, positive or negative, would be appreciated
Posted on Jun 4, 2008, 5:06 PM from IP address 70.198.145.251
I live in Lincoln, NE but I'm down in OKC OK for two months for training. Anybody got a T2 down here in the area? Is anybody going to Oshkosh this year? My wife and I will be camping with our Cessna. (it will be a few years before my Teenie will make the trip)I know it's early, but I've got Oshkosh on the mind.
Posted on Jun 3, 2008, 6:04 AM from IP address 162.58.82.136
Hey Ponca City, okla is the next place to be this sat morning for breakfast and I will be wielding my new exaust should be fun. You are invited and I will buy your breakfast...My teenie two in in rework waiting on my new p=tip from prince... come on by. Roy
Posted on Jun 3, 2008, 7:41 PM from IP address 68.97.250.116
Roy,
My wife is driving down for the weekend. I'm trying to talk her into heading up your way for the breakfest and to see a T2. What time does it start?
Mark
Posted on Jun 5, 2008, 10:37 AM from IP address 162.58.82.136
Roy,
Is your Teenie Two going to be at the airport? How far along are you on the project? My wife has never seen a compleated Teenie. I've got a few more years to go on mine.
Mark
Posted on Jun 6, 2008, 7:21 AM from IP address 162.58.82.135
Roy,
Thanks for your hospitality! I enjoyed spending an hour looking at a completed Teenie. I wish I hangar next door to you, it would make my project go a lot faster. I’ve got a big order of parts on the way to the house which should keep me busy through the summer. You have a good thing going at that airport. Let me know if you make it to Oshkosh this summer. My wife and I are going in the 152. (providing we can camp with 68 pounds of gear)
Mark
Posted on Jun 9, 2008, 8:40 AM from IP address 162.58.82.135
I'm in the process of ordering all of the 4130 tubes for the control stick control tubes. I seem to remember a bushing weilded on a steal plate that you could purchase and use on the 3/4" tube on bulkhead B. I'll make it if I have to, but I remeber seeing one somewhere in Spruce or Wicks, but I can't find it. Can anyone help?
Posted on May 28, 2008, 5:08 PM from IP address 68.12.65.102
Hi folks I used a 2in square piece of Meet
cutting board with a collar on the front and
back I did this in several loactions
works great. Is on the plans look at the
tube that goes though bulkhead c the seat
back bulk head Plans show 2 2 by 2 nlyon.
blocks I used this on bulk head b too.
Brian Buckley Ontario Canada
Posted on May 29, 2008, 6:28 PM from IP address 209.29.159.8
Hi Mark
I din't ivent any thing I just did what calvin shows on his
plans were the tube goes though the bulk head C
2 by 2 piece of nylon 4 bolts. then a lock
collar front and back Smooth and don't squeek.
The lock collars are just 7/8th tube sliped
over the 3/4 control tube. with a 3/16 bolt
though it. Can send a pic if you email
me mbuckley@idirect.com
Posted on Jun 8, 2008, 1:44 AM from IP address 209.29.159.193
i have the original plans for the jeanies teeny and book on constuction with notes etc. also i have the wing 3pieces completed and want to sell them does anyone know how i can sell the wing assembly and blu prints. lots of notes and letters i hope some one can use or want what i have let me know thanx tim t
Posted on May 26, 2008, 2:34 PM from IP address 75.170.59.226
Hi Folks I am using a 52 by 37 wood prop.
I have a 1600 cc vw. Its a copy of a Heggy
Prop. I have no idea yet of the rpm but have
about 300 hours on my teenie. The second
teenie is still in the barn and hope to have
it flying this year.
Brian
Posted on May 12, 2008, 6:29 PM from IP address 209.29.158.16
Its a 1835.I have a 52x44 and can only get 2750 rpm static ,I reckon I should be getting at least 3000 RPM. So I have just sent the prop back to the guy that carved it to try and re pitch it.
Posted on May 13, 2008, 8:10 AM from IP address 220.233.53.101
I have run 2 different 52 X 44 props on 1835 engines. One was a Hagy and the other was a Prescision propeller. Both gave 3000 rpm or better static.
If your engine is producing full power, and the prop is pitched correctly, you should be getting around 3000 rpm static.
Maybe you can borrow a prop frome someone to use as a test to see if the problem is the prop or the engine.
Mike
Posted on May 13, 2008, 8:23 PM from IP address 209.194.185.2
There will be a new moderator shortly, and the off topic messages are being removed. Skeates may try to post from another IP address, but that will be blocked as well. Police have been notified, as have Network 54 company officials.
Let's get back to talking about Teenie Two airplanes.
Posted on May 10, 2008, 8:35 PM from IP address 24.46.116.222
Well it about time that the real teenie two post get to be the main topic again. I hope its not too late. Now if we can get the ads to stay in line and porn to not start up... Waiting for my prince carbon p tip to arrive, He says is a 15 week back order but will be awsome when it does come. Re doing ignition wires,carberator, brakes,exaust,prop,rudder post,remote oil drain, and any thing else that isnt quite right...
Posted on May 12, 2008, 12:29 AM from IP address 68.97.250.116
Jon,
I hadn't seen any activity on the Teenie Yahoo Group so I thought I would check over here. Bravo on your taking over as moderator. I am very surprised that you could even find the originator of this group (last I heard from him, he had moved to Indonesia or Southeast Asia somewhere...)
Anyway, Ron from Indian Territory, I have a Prince Prop. He originally told me three to four weeks and I naively told him that he could take his time. After four months I started asking about my delivery. It took six months total and that was after several broken promises.
So don't let him forget who you are. Keep following up to keep him on track. But you will be impressed with the prop. It is truly artwork. Even the box it comes in is extremely well made.
Mine is a Prince wood P-tip, 52 X 38 on a 1679cc. Unfortunately, my project has languished and I haven't even started my engine after it was built by Hummel Engines.
Good luck to all,
Jack D
Posted on May 14, 2008, 7:31 AM from IP address 63.131.48.35
the geneva convention will have to use my work on chess computors to get a draw in war fare so ..one ..the move allocator need to be established and repeated until a draw comes ..the catch 22 ..and second ..only one impumnity move order when every thing is in the ballance at a time and not two in one go ..and a move intensity order ballance so the robots and computors dont attack or see a threat and you must asume it takes wioth the best defence ever so it is not a beginner and it wiill not taske risks but attack when it wins only so humans are not needed because humans take risks ..
Posted on Mar 8, 2008, 8:48 PM from IP address 203.15.226.132
the raptures pitch problem is caused by ...move order intensity ..ballance deficiency ...get it marin ..i know all your doing ..and every move on the space shuttle because you know iom right ..from gods doing ..i am the second coming of christ on the clouds as christ said and i didnt get their by male christian bullshit i got their by my theorys you use lochhead ...so put up or shut up congress i am every one and every thing is me and now mans sophistry is dead and womans has begun and woman in the white house ...you bet ...
Posted on Mar 6, 2008, 11:02 PM from IP address 136.153.2.6
Ok, this has gone on long enough. I look at this site everyday to keep up on the T2 and its builders and this clown keeps showing up. Enough, idiot!!!!
Posted on Mar 7, 2008, 6:26 PM from IP address 67.168.244.23
air bus makes carbon fibre parts for its air buses and two tails so far have come off so avition specialists have moved an order to ground any fibre glass work which is cscratched as the only alternative to under stand the problenm but fibre glass ages and a scratch in new glass will suppeseed it self into its structure so the scratch removes its self but as age brittleises it it then turns to structual defect ,and also when howard huges made the srpruce goose he slapped the controls wildly to lat the engineers know that large air craft repond much more quickly conrtry to first thopught so air bus has totaly denounced his long standing definition and slap a mandatory only one half movement of the rudder is allowed so imagine that if you got into a side slip your not allowed to use full rudder to correct your teeni two ..wo i think air bus is madddddddddddd
Posted on Mar 6, 2008, 10:56 PM from IP address 136.153.2.6
an expansion chamber on a two stroke motor bike exaust uses pulses to excentuate the normal exaust and induction cycle by negitive mega phones and positive mega phones to suck out unwanted exuast and to help the inlet ports suck in air fuel mixture qucker and the send a positive pulse back into the cyclinder to cram as much pressure in to the cylinder as possible just before it closes to get extra compression and the stinger at the end governs the temperature to control the exuast sound waves speed ..so to on a hanglider the luffing action travels along the 130 nose angle faster than the glider travels to the center of the forward section of the glider to produce a lift centroid pulse and the splash back to the rear of the glider to the reflex as a slowing reverse pulse to create a negitive lift centroid to counter the pitch .in chess computors they work on impunity so if your up on double impunity it will take and you will loose the opposite of playing humans so when useing computors in air craft your compatibility is desired offffff ....
Posted on Mar 5, 2008, 12:43 AM from IP address 203.15.226.132
if thats the case with two stroke engines why do they need an exuast
with out an exuast the used gases would
exit the engine new fuel and air would be sucked in please explain why we use an exuast
Posted on Mar 10, 2008, 5:22 AM from IP address 210.54.233.90
You have obviously escaped from a mental ward at your local looney bin in the hospital. Please favor us with your swift departure back into your lifetime issued, monogramed straight jacket... and please take your meds now. Watch the door closely on your way in to the ward... we would not want you to SMASH your fingers in the door... heaven forbid you would not be able to type for a while... and give us a break.
Get Well soon... go take a double dose of your prozak meds... you surely need them about now.
Good Luck on your return home buddy...
JW
Posted on Mar 5, 2008, 8:52 PM from IP address 67.223.194.185
I am wondering if anyone has some great pictures of Teenie Two Tail Draggers, so I can see how people have built them. I am also wondering how difficult it might be, if I decide to change the tail dragger plane to a more common tricyle gear.
Posted on Feb 29, 2008, 8:23 PM from IP address 70.216.137.102
I am wondering if anyone has some great pictures of Teenie Two Tail Draggers, so I can see how people have built them. I am also wondering how difficult it might be, if I decide to change the tail dragger plane to a more common tricyle gear.
Posted on Feb 29, 2008, 8:20 PM from IP address 70.216.137.102
I am going to do some fast taxie testing in my Teenie tomarrow.
At what IAS should I expect rotation and lifoff?
My Teenie is powered by a Subaru EA-71 with direct drive. The wieghts
are: nose wheel 149, right main 131, left main 131.5, total empty weight 411.5 and I am 185 lbs.
Thanks for any help or info.
Fly Safe,
John
Posted on Feb 29, 2008, 4:02 PM from IP address 24.241.170.140
I have relisted my T1 project on Ebay, this time without a reserve. I will consider shipping if you make arrangements prior to bidding. It's in Salt Lake City, UT. Good luck.
Hey been a while since I have written, wanted to let you fellers know my Teenie Two and I are fine just been re-building everything that I didnt like and getting her ready for this summer. Had some awsome flights and now have even more awsome memories from last summer. I have been contemplating a new Prince P Tip carbon fiber prop. Does anyone have any input on this choice? I have installed the remote drain from Revmaster and really like that. Also fixing to order the Black Max brakes and wheels from Hart Aero. The down side is I have been driving a fuel tanker to pay for the improvements and now hauling ethenol I have little time to rub on the Teenie Two. Well there is some information without any flame how about some more!!! Thanks for the reading Roy / Hammer
Posted on Feb 24, 2008, 9:39 PM from IP address 68.97.250.116